Beijing Opera: Where they don’t sing opera and you can eat dim sum

Love this…

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The Company Trip.

Our hotel in Germany was five stars and the staff very friendly but there was not a minute to relax as we were rushed out to a beer kellar and promised local entertainment. He was the first speaker at the conference the next day so I advised him to go carefully with the Steins of beer.
These would have been fine on their own but we also enjoyed sausage and fermenting cabbage in the form of sauerkraut to the accompanying sounds of the cheerful oom pah pah music. He spent all night complaining about his self inflicted state and I am afraid to say I was less than sympathetic.
The trouble was that although it was spring the snow was falling hard and the wind was howling all around. The ladies in their finery were treated to a trip into the mountains where we were shown a beautiful view. Well it would have been beautiful if the fog was not so dense, as we stood on the balcony and stared at a white out, shivering.
The afternoon we met up with the chaps and went on a coach trip to a wine tasting event at a vineyard. They may have been making Eiswein (Iced Wine) for all I knew because we were all absolutely frozen. A lot of people stayed inside and I think copious quantities of wine were consumed that afternoon.
We were late back on the coach for the time of our evening’s entertainment at Heidelberg Castle so everyone was advised to rush. Some poor young chap rushed so hard and combined with all the wine he had consumed slipped heavily in the shower and was taken to hospital with suspected concussion.
We were now all in our eveningwear as we piled back into the coach. Our frazzled party of fifty, chilly, overdressed people climbed out of our warm vehicle and waited at the bottom of the castle steps waiting to be drummed in by the regal, brass band. Well we waited and waited and nothing happened and then suddenly I spied horses in the distance.

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Riding the Rails in Europe

This gallery contains 6 photos.

Originally posted on GALLIVANCE:
Like many young couples, as soon as we could afford it, we went to Europe. These were the days of Arthur Frommer’s Europe On $25 A Day, Rick Steves’ Europe Through The Back Door, and Eurail Passes…

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The Fishes Wedding

I went with my oldest grandson to the garden centre to buy some more fish for the garden pond. We carried our carefully chosen precious catch home and then tipped it into the fizzing, dark depths of water beneath the tinkling waterfall.
We hoped the heron that frequented these parts would be kept away by the large plastic heron we had just purchased to confuse her. We knew she could not manage to lift the weighty koi carp but we wanted to give the other fish time to grow.
Grant and I had happily sploshed our ancient goldfish in the pond when they moved into this lovely house. Goldie and Silver had lived for years in our farmhouse kitchen but had grown exponentially in the last few years.
One day, years before I was standing at the back door of my daughter’s house holding blonde haired, two year old Felix, in my arms. My daughter had been feeding the koi carp and had just joined us in the kitchen doorway.
Suddenly it went dark and a large heron swooped down. Of all the fish in the pond to take that day, when he lifted his large beak it contained the one and only shimmering, silver goldfish in the land. Silver, the goldfish had turned that amazing colour the day after we won him at the country fair.
Felix screeched “Oh Mummy, where is Silver going?” and burst into tears.
My quick thinking daughter replied with insouciance “Actually darling today is a wedding day for silver goldfish and the heron has been chosen to escort him to meet his bride”
Felix tears turned into smiles and he ran to play on the swing. “Where did that idea come from?” I asked his Mum.
“Absolutely no idea, I just heard my mouth say the words” she laughed and went to make some tea….

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One day travel: Rome, the Eternal City

A city I visited in the 1990s. On my list of places to go back to….

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Our first meal on the Island

We had our first meal on the Island that evening. A monkfish and red pepper starter, lambs cooked long and slow with fat, sweet red tomatoes and the huge butter beans that are available all over Spain for main course. Malcolm was the only one that wanted a pudding and so I kindly agreed to join him in a dish of Arroz con leche. That was until I realised it was a rice pudding, but the honey ice cream that accompanied the dish was sublime.
We made our way to watch the glorious sunset at Ses Variades. There were large crowds there that night to experience the visage. The setting orange sun seems to turn the sea into a titian cloudscape of fire.
The next day we were up and about early as it was Sunday and we wanted to see The Iglesia de Sant Rafel.This little church is on top of the mountain in San Rafael and the views are amazing. The service was an inclusive communal worship and the choir of adults and children alike was exquisite. The four parts of the choir alto, soprano, tenor and bass were easily discernible in this magical setting and the choir richly deserved its description of heavenly.
We wandered out into the sunshine and realised that the church was near the Museo Puget which was next on our agenda.
This museum was only founded in 2007 and celebrates the legacy of Ibiza Narcis Puget Vinas and his son Narcis Puget Vinas.There are lots of watercolours and oil paintings to enjoy from the nineteenth and twentieth century.
Sunday lunch of delicious Paella and a snooze awaited and I am sorry to say the rest of our Ibiza adventure was spent eating and sleeping with the occasional evening of drinking and dancing thrown in for good measure……

Extract from the Lotus Generation due out in December 2014

 

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A new handbag at LAX

A NEW HANDBAG AT LAX
We took our leave of that splendid hotel room, waved goodbye to Las Vegas and hopped on the forty five minute plane journey to Los Angeles.
I love LAX airport because if you stand still for a moment all human life passes you by. It was in a moment of reflection that into my field of vision appeared the most gorgeous handbag that I had ever seen.
This was a proper handbag that Audrey Hepburn would have worn perched on her arm as she went about her day. It was a darling, dainty handbag to hold a lipstick, tiny purse and tissues. Wrong for me on every level as I needed room for a computer, children’s toys, chocolate, reams of paper and pens, a huge bunch of keys, two purses and three pairs of glasses.
Unsuitable for the real me but perfect for my imaginary me who was always perfectly turned out, even tempered and graceful. With constant bon mots falling from her perfectly arranged lips that always had just the right amount of lipstick on.
The only quote of Audrey Hepburn’s that came into my mind then was “Happiness is health and a short term memory. “I liked the health bit but was not sure about a short term memory as it would not be any good in my line of work.
My husband found me whilst the perfect cream bag was being wrapped perfectly in copious amounts of matching tissue. He grabbed my hand and yelled “This plane is going to go without us.”
I smiled my thanks grabbed my card and treasured handbag. As I began to run like the wind, I could saw I swear I saw Audrey smiling from a distance.
We arrived back in UK and after a visit with the family in England made our way back to get the plane to Alicante airport. We picked up the car and made our way home in the sunshine and I was glad had another week off work
.We had spent the most wonderful couple of weeks and I wanted to be able to remember it all at my leisure.

Extract from The Lotus Generation due out December 2014

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The El Tamborito Band

I closed my eyes for just a moment as the gentle, soothing rhythm of the train lulled me into the arms of Morpheus. I could feel the inside of his warm wrist against mine through the crisp cotton of his blue oxford shirt. Within seconds, it seemed, I was unwillingly dragged back into wakefulness by a fierce, hot shot of adrenalin pumping all through my body. The first thought to enter my brain was “I know I must have been asleep because I have that slight metallic taste on my tongue.”
It was during the next burst of reality, when I had really no idea where I was, an esoteric farrago so tumultuous, so loud crashed and banged its way into my foggy brain.
The powerful noise was in fact The EL Tamborito band, The Little Drum or Tamborito that is the music and dance of Panamanian Folklore. I forced my eyes open and stretched my neck to check out its restricted movement. First this way and that before realising that the percussion section, and particularly the man with the cymbals, was warming up just behind my head. Then, out of the mist I finally remembered where we were.
We were on a train journey between Puerto Colon, near the Caribbean entrance to the Panama Canal, and Panama City on the Pacific Coast. The Panama Canal Railway is one of the great unknown train rides of the world. The railroad follows a picturesque path across the Isthmus of Panama. The carriage was so evocative of the nineteen century but comfortable with a cool breeze playing across the warm air.
. Our journey on the scenic railway line flanked the Panama Canal. The train swished through lush rainforests, cruised alongside the Canal’s locks, through the historic Gaillard Cut and passed over the slender cause ways in the Gatun Lake.
The band and dancers were dressed in the national costume of Panama. The women’s dresses are called Polleras and are handmade and the adult girls dress should last them for life. There are designed in beautiful colours of pink and blue with animals and flowers on a white background. The dresses normally take a year to make and can cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars.
The gold and pearl Mosquetas and Temblques head dresses are generally passed down as heirlooms through the generations. Men wear the traditional Montuno outfits with traditional hats that recall life in the country side.
The dancers played and sang their way up and down the corridor of the luxury train. They handed out sweetmeats and local drinks and told stories of their ancestors and their quest for wealth during the California Gold Rush. The trip took about two hours which gave us lots of time to explore Panama City.

 Taken from my new book The Lotus Generation due out December 2014

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The Big Sur and The Eagles

THE BIG SUR AND THE EAGLES
We were soon on our way on the Pacific Coast Highway-Route One. There is only one album to play on this road and play it we did, on a loop, as we sang along. The Eagles greatest hits include Hotel California which we would pass on our spectacular journey. Tequila Sunrise, Take it easy, Lying eyes and Desperado……
The Big Sur is one of the most dramatic coastal rides anywhere in the world. We were heading from San Francisco to Santa Barbara to see our friends Susie and Ross. Along the section of California’s coastline between Hearst Castle and Carmel, North America plunges outwards towards the Pacific Ocean, This tenacious piece of highway clinging to the cliffs is soaring and dramatic.
The blue of the restless Pacific waves match the never ending azure sky. As far as the eye could see white horse waves crashed against the rocks. This breath taking scenery along this redwood lined stretch of road is so beguiling that you have great fortune if you are the passenger. I pity the driver who has to keep his eyes on the road when all you want to do is staring at nature’s bounty.
I love this part of the world and the delicious expectancy of never ending good weather .My friend Amy was planning her wedding on the Californian coast and conveyed all her plans to me over the phone. Everything from the wedding to the reception was outdoors and to my London ears, listening under a grey sky, this sounded very dangerous. “What happens if it rains?” I suggested. Her peal of laughter made me feel a little silly “Don’t worry, the weather will be absolutely fine” she assured me.
She was absolutely right as the weather was gorgeous and a wonderful time was had by the assembled company. When I took a little breather from the festivities, a question kept pecking away at my relaxed and slightly wine befuddled brain. “Why are these people here all so beautiful and seemingly completely relaxed?”
Then it occurred to me that there is something very freeing about good weather. People walk with their shoulders back and their limbs move lightly through the air freely as though the spectre of creaking bones had never existed .In Great Britain may leave your house in London or Manchester looking gorgeous but freezing wind blowing sideways can soon turn you into a figure from an L.S. Lowry painting in moments….

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The road to The Alhambra Palace

I shifted in my seat and wound down the window to breathe in the crisp mountain air. I felt as though I had been in the Sierra Nevada forever as the perfect azure blue sky pierced my closed lids. I forced opened my eyes and saw the road signs for magical cities like Seville, Cordoba and Cadiz calling to us as we passed.
The road seemed to be going on and on in a shimmering haze. Gnarled, ancient olive trees stretched as far as the eye could see with their precious crop glinting in the sunlight. Then with another breath, the scent of lemons was everywhere.
Then the cool raindrops misted my face as a raincloud passed overhead. Soon it was gone and the lemon scent was intensified all around us. “Wow, what’s that fabulous smell” said my husband as he took a deep slow breath. We had hardly spoken in the two hours we had been travelling as we were both enjoying the Spanish classical guitar concert on the radio. “Lemons” I whispered without opening my eyes.
A half an hour went by and then he said “open your eyes and look at the navy mountains in the distance, they look stunning with their fluffy topping of white clouds”.
I looked around as the music changed key and a whole new picture came into view. The well-travelled road to Granada with its white houses and red roofs sparkled in the distance.
The Alhambra Palace soon came into view and we marvelled at such a thing of beauty built so many centuries ago.
We parked the car and began to walk along the cobbled path surrounded by a beautiful garden. We were mesmerised and peeping over the wall we could see Granada in all its glory down below. The perfume of the roses in the palace garden was stunning, filling your senses like a magical mist and somehow brought you closer to the history of this medieval palace. Various shades of pink, white, yellow and cream roses surrounded by perfect lines of scented lavender stretched your eyes out into eternity.
The large oak door blocked our path and then we were summoned through by an old curator. A cool marble entrance and a thousand twinkling stars above and I knew I would always remember this place in my heart.
Then he whispered “I have just seen a smart restaurant through a chink in the door, are you hungry? I nodded and soon we were seated in the most divine space next to a tinkling stream full of darting silver and golden fishes. I do not remember ordering anything but delicious dishes arrived and were replaced by even tastier ones until finally iced lemon Granizados and coffee arrived to complete our meal.
It was the cool of the evening when we left to find our car and all the visitors seemed to have disappeared into the mist.We had hardly spoken for hours but we had spent one of the most perfect days we had ever had

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